Sunday, June 19, 2005


Cape Egmont Lighthouse with Mount Egmont/Taranaki in the background

In the parlour...see how close you have to be to the bums?...!

Beside Taranaki Falls on the first day walking

The old Waihohonu Hut in Tongariro National Park

View inland from the top with Mount Taranaki in the distance.

Hannah on the steep descent feom Paritutu ... it was at about this point on the way up that she decided to mention her distaste for extreme vertical heights. Timing, darling!

...Charlie Brown's pals consider the enormity of Everest...

The Huka Falls, near Lake Taupo

...and the little bees working so hard to make it.....it takes 1000 bees to make just one teaspoon of honey!

The honey...

Lower Tama Lake...result of an old explosion crater

The Forgotten World Highway.... extreme landscape...and extremely beautiful
Its taken me a while to sit down and report on whats been happening the last while…but that tired old cliché applies – time really does fly when you are enjoying yourself. After we left ‘northland’ we drove down to Hamilton and enjoyed a luxury motel (complete with Jacuzzi, sauna, swimming pool and all that jazz) free to us! Courtesy of our generous new-found rugby friends who had paid for it but were unable to use it. We also cost-price scored tickets for the Lions v NZ Maori game on the Saturday morning and had a great day. Shame about the result – witnessed history in the wrong direction! First time the Maori have ever beaten the Lions…but the atmosphere was electric and it was great to be there. We crashed in the car that night with about 5 sleeping bags and a double duvet! From one extreme to the other…one noght riches…the next rags…we are heading the wrong direction! But its all part of the fun. Got to church in Hamilton called ‘Destiny church’ which was good. I was reduced to tears as the pastor spontaneously spoke of his love for his wife. Really beautiful. After Hamilton we went to Lake Taupo…stayed in a cabin at a holiday camp. Quite like an off-season ‘Heidi-hi’ Enjoyed a sightseeing day next including the Huka falls, the geysers and craters in one of the thermal fields and an apiarist paradise … a whole centre committed to bee-keeping….saw the bees at work inside glass hives… they really are incredible creatures. It has fuelled my interest and I am determined to be a bee-charmer someday. Of course we got to taste all the honey :o) sweet. Also purchased a bottle of fruitwine…made from ‘fejoas’. Are you proud of me mummy? Finding a wine I can drink! We travelled a bit further south and just managed to get a bed in a holiday camp in ‘Whakapapa Village’ below Mount Ruapehu in the Tongariro National Park. The next day we walked through the volcanic wilderness to a remote mountain hut where we stayed for the night and hiked back the next day via the Tama Lakes (although we only made it to the lower one as our attempt to reach the higher one was thwarted by severe winds…I don’t recall ever being so close to being lifted off the ground completely – but remember it is winter over here!). WE had the most bizarre experience returning to the village by a waterfall when Hannah’s little brother appeared round a corner on the route down! He is over on a holiday with his mother but we had not intended to meet them here…we didn’t know where they were and vice versa – it was unbelievable! Next we drove to New Plymouth via the ‘Forgotten World Highway’. If I’d seen Lord of the Rings I would say that this was that country but as I haven’t I cant quite be sure…but we did pass through a 200m tunnel called ‘the Hobbits hole’. But this road was the most amazing I have ever been on…really truly isolated and just as if it has been lost in time. 150 kilometres with only a handful of farmsteads…stunning scenery. Hannah was very patient with my photograph stops! I would love to do it again…perhaps on a motorbike next time. We arrived and got a nice hostel in time to get a shower and get down to the pub to watch the match…and had some grand pub grub too. Happy days. Back at the hostel with our baileys hot chocolates, Hannah studied and I talked to randoms. Ended up in a great chat with this Buddhist guy and talked till 4am at which point I started to think it was ridiculous that I had paid for a bed I wasn’t using… and we ran out of logs for the fire…so called it a night. On Wednesday we went to a totally brilliant exhibition about Sir Edmund Hillary and the Ascent of Everest. More than a bit inspiring…made me quite emotional at several points… I think would bring out the adventurer in anyone. Oh, and guess what…before he was a great explorer…Hillary was an apiarist! True story! After that we went a climbed a high viewpoint called Paritutu meaning ‘rising precipice’ to get the best view over New Plymouth. It was steep and a bit scary in parts…but we were rewarded with an amazing panorama out over the Tasman Sea and western North Island with the magnificent backdrop of Mount Egmont (a.k.a Mt Taranaki) – an active volcano. Apparently it is due to erupt again soon. Thankfully not today though :o) Further down the ‘surf highway’ we caught the sunset at Cape Egmont Lighthouse. Very beautiful. More exciting though, I got to talk to the old lighthouse keepers who live in the house just beside and have stayed on there since the light was automated in 1986. That was cool. We left it a bit late to get accommodation that night and had a bit of an adventure trying to find the isloated farmstay mentioned in our out-dated Lonely Planet guide for this quiet little backwater town. But we found it, and laughed when we did. Possibly the most random accommodation we’ve had so far. In Wanganui the next day Hannah met up with family and I spent a long time pottering around the shops and following a bit of the art trail for the town which was relaxing and enjoyable…and I was very good and refrained from spending my food money on the lovely clothes in the surf shop. And on Friday night we came back here to Palmy and I get to see where Hannah has been living. We watched ‘Ray’ (about Ray Chalres) and ate well. I slept :o) while Hannah milked the next day and then joined her at work at ‘The Celtic’ in the evening and watched the match – another unspectacular performance from ‘the pride of Britain’. Today after church I joined Hannah at the cows and had a wee go at the milking myself. Photos to follow! You really don’t appreciate until you’re in there how much work is involved just to get a pint of milk. Plus, the risk of working underneath the cows - you are below the height of their rump, and therefore on the receiving end of whatever is expelled from there. Which I was. Poo on my face. I learned to be more watchful and move quickly. So adding to my future bee-keeping I have dreams of having a couple of pet cows of my own for milk….so my home will really be ‘a land overflowing with milk and honey..’ haha! We had a nice roast chicken dinner tonight washed down with a nice glass of fejoa wine and watched ‘Mr Deeds’. Great stuff. Tomorrow we head to Wellington for a couple of days before our flights to fiji. I know its tough, but hey, what can you do eh? Hoping to surf out there as plans to learn here haven’t worked due to lack of swell, but apparently its reliable out there. But we’ll see. Much love, b x

i took a bit of a liking for this place as we travelled back down from northland towards Auckland. 'Lang's Beach'.

The sandhill we 'surfed' on at 90 mile beach (actually only 64 miles long!). It doesnt look so high in the photo but if you can make out the black dots to our right thats a few folk making their was up the hill.

Cape Reinga Lighthouse

The Kahawai we cooked for tea!

Look what we spotted from the boat! Bay of Islands.

I am sitting in front of a traditional Maori carving which has inspired my choice of new favourite quote: "Ehara I a te rakau te whakaaro, kei a te tohunga tarai i te rakau te whakaaro". Special prize to anyone who translates it for me... :o)
I last wrote from Rotorua and am now up in the Northlands of New Zealand in a wee town called Paihia. Hannah and I have had the greatest week and it just seems that this trip is heaven sent….the kiwis just LOVE the Irish and we have been shown the most amazing hospitality. A family in Auckland (met at the rugby) had us to stay there on our way up to here….their friend was also staying with them and is from Paihia and insisted we go up and stay with his wife at his home while we were up here and he is away anywhere. So that is what happened.We spent a great lazy day driving up here and stopped at almost every beautiful waterfall, deserted beach and small backwater town on the way! Yesterday we went to a local museum and discovered about the history of new Zealand and the settlers and the signing of the treaty. I have decided to take a more active interest in history…my only stipulation is that it has to be on-location :o) :o) :o) ha ha. Afterwards we went out on a cruise to spot dolphins which was successful…there were loads out but we couldn’t swim with them because they had the babies in their pod…also saw a beautiful lighthouse :o) there were shoals of fish jumping up on the surface of the water so we threw a line in and caught a nice big kahawai! Took it home and cooked it for dinner! Honestly! It was mad. Gutted it, stuffed it with lemons onions and with some butter salt and pepper wrapped in tinfoil and baked in the oven with potatoes and carrots. This is a good start to this country. Last night we went down to the local ‘swordfish club’ and watched the match…hope to be at the maori vs lions game in Hamilton on Saturday…heading down there tomorrow and hoping to meet the guys who are sorting us out with tickets.Today was brilliant too though…went on a crazy trip called ‘Dunerider 4x4’ up to the very northern point of north island: Cape Reinga. There was a very lovely lighthouse. We looked out over the water to the point were the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean and went to a beach for picnic lunches. Hannah and I went in for a swim (in the pacific) before lunch which was a good laugh. Chilly enough but up here the New Zealand winter is quite different to what we’re used to. It was probably like a good day at the coast at home. Afterwards went sandsurfing and drove along ’90 mile beach’ (which is actually only 64 miles)…spotted a dead whale….a herd of wild horses (who’s gonna ride them?)…wild peacocks and other general excitement. This may all be totally boring to you so let me know if you’d like me to remove you from this list! I just thought I should touch base while I can as I wont always be able to get online.Hope to hear back from you soon, and I hope all those preparing for weddings have it all under control and are looking forward to the big days… much love, babs xo

First Lions try of the NZ tour 2005

Lake Rotorua at Sunset

The Campervan-driving Irish boys who were great craic at the first match of the Lions tour
so i am happily settling in NZ....things have got off to a bit of a mad start as i travelled tuesday- thursday with no stopovers and no proper sleep...in the airport in Kuala Lumpar for 4 hours i bumped into an ards rugby boy (james mcCavery) so sat with him the rest of the 11 hour flight to auckland. for being such a small country alot of us seem to get around a bit. stayed in a hostel thursday night in auckland where i met a few irish lads (favourite words: 'savage' 'deadly' 'brutal') who were heading to the first match of the lions tour this weekend in rotorua...which is where i write to you from now...we travelled down here in their campervan and booked into a motel and split the cost. 3 double beds and one single.....6 boys and one of me so i got my own bed :o) these things just work out beautifully. Managed to get a ticket for the match an hour before the game at face value and watched the lions just about beat the bay of plenty. Not a convincing result though.....was a bit touch and go at several points so i dont know how they will fare as the tour goes on. I am concerned about the health of those who are following the tour for the whole time....the drinking this weekend was lethal.....i had a good boogie but am glad im not part of the 'barmy army' touring thing. a weekend of hardcore partying and sleep deprivation is enough for me. you could do that for 11weeks and never see the county. thats not why im here. anyway, i am still possibly going to try and get to see some more rugby...maori game and the auckland game. i've been offered tickets at cost price and i think they might even be cheaper than landsdowne road tickets so it would be a shame not to...but i have to remember im on a backpackers budget!
hannah is driving up to meet me here later tonight and we are staying in a hostel. hoping to go and see some of the maori cultural heritage stuff that this area is famed for. Then we'll roadtrip it north and get some walking in...maybe a bit of the adrenaline stuff too...but i cant wait to see the countryside...on the flight in i thought i was approaching heaven. seems strange to write so soon....only feel like i've been away for the weekend because the rest of the week was spent getting here. i understand now what people mean when they say you really feel so far away when you are here. i guess it makes sense when you are on the other side of the world.for those who were asking you'll be disappointed to hear that no talent has been spotted yet...or rather the rich public school boys following the rugby that happen to be easy on the eye are so much not even up for consideration that you wouldn't believe. amazing how unattractive people can make themselves when stupidly drunk despite having the utmost potential! and as for the kiwis i have met so far.....lovely people, very friendly...everyone loves 'the irish' apparently....but the men are yet to impress me. Those requests for me to bring home a nice big maori warrior for certain people just couldnt happen....honestly! those guys are MASSIVE! like the most hugely enormous human being i have ever seen in real life. you just feel the need to step out of their way walking down the street. quite intimidating. hmmm.
nothing else to report except that i think the plan to beat the jetlag worked and to board the plane sleep deprived means you sleep ok and then adjust to the time difference. its all good.would love to hear how the open air went down in bangor if anyone knows? was remembering you all in it from here. also, im not forgetting those who are still studying and hope you manage to persevere with a last big effort. 1'll not say good luck but all the best....or rather....do your best, and God will do the rest!
much love, babs xoxo

Hannah & Barbara ... Bream Bay Beach ... North Island, New Zealand ... June 2005

Friday, June 17, 2005

Well, I think I should really have started this quite some time ago...but alas my good intentions never came to fruition. I have often prided myself on being a good correspondent but as we know pride always comes before a fall!....and of late my personal organization has deteriorated (if that is possible) and so I have become rather behind in keeping up with folk. My apologies. I am taking a leaf out of my more clued-up friends books (namely Ruth, Tim & Andrew) and keeping it posted here so if anyone is interested they can read themselves! So here begins my account of Southern Hemisphere Adventures. Maybe after I return home and find some quieter moments i will put in updates about other random trips/stories...thoughts on life...oh the options are endless. So its only fair to warn you... continue at your own risk!
God bless
Bx